Just a few kilometers from Brantôme lies an almost perfectly intact medieval village, two castles for the price of one, and a river flowing at the foot of the ramparts. Bourdeilles is well worth the detour.
A village worth the journey… and the reward
Leaving Brantôme heading southwest, the scenic road follows the Dronne, winding between limestone cliffs and lazy meanders. At the end of this lush green corridor, the massive silhouette of the Château de Bourdeilles suddenly emerges, perched on its rocky spur like a forgotten sentinel. One immediately understands why the village was once the first of the four baronies of Périgord—along with Biron, Beynac, and Mareuil—and one of the most contested seats of power in all of the Dordogne.
The village of Bourdeilles is located just 7 km from Brantôme and about 20 km northwest of Périgueux, in the heart of the Périgord Vert. From Château le Verdoyer, expect a drive of about half an hour—the ideal excursion for an afternoon steeped in history.
Two castles, eight centuries of history
What makes Bourdeilles instantly unique is that it is not just one castle, but two structures side-by-side, separated by several centuries of architecture and historical turbulence.
The first, medieval, dates back to the late 13th century. Its 35-meter octagonal keep—the tallest in the entire department—rises above the rooftops with quiet authority. Inside, climb the 235 stone steps to reach a stunning panorama: the village, the wooded valley, and the slow curves of the Dronne. The guard room, paved courtyards, and vaulted cellars complete this immersion into the military Middle Ages.
The second castle, Renaissance in style, was born from a story cut short. It was Jacquette de Montbron who, at the end of the 16th century, commissioned this palace inspired by Italian villas to host Catherine de’ Medici—the patron of Pierre de Bourdeille, author of the famous ‘Dames Galantes’. The queen never set foot there, but the palace remains magnificent. Today, it houses one of the richest furniture collections in Nouvelle-Aquitaine: tapestries, painted ceilings, gilded salons, and even the legendary Spanish bed of Charles V, known as the “Paradise Bed.” The tour of both castles lasts approximately 90 minutes.
The Château de Bourdeilles is not just to be visited; it is to be experienced. Throughout the year, original activities are offered—virtual reality escape games spanning four pivotal eras, theatrical torchlit night tours, and medieval craft workshops during school holidays. And every year at the end of July, the Bourdeilles Medieval Festival transforms the site for a weekend: armored knight combat, living history camps, artisan markets, and period gastronomy—attracting up to 3,000 visitors for a celebration that grows in scale each year.
The old bridge, the rapids, and the ‘Grosses Madames’
One of the most beautiful views of the site is found below, facing the old Gothic bridge with its cutwaters that spans the Dronne. At its feet, the river tumbles over small rapids before calming down, and on one of the rocky islets stands the 17th-century seigniorial mill, another discreet witness to the location’s medieval prosperity.
In the water, facing this same bridge, your gaze will fall upon an artistic surprise: the “Grosses Madames”, sculptures created by Betty Arab and Laurence Orchard, whose generous forms seem to float between water and sky. It is one of the most unexpected—and cheerful—curiosities in all of the Périgord Vert.
Getting lost in the ‘cantons’
Beyond the castles, the village itself is well worth a good hour of wandering. The ‘cantons’—those medieval alleyways sometimes so narrow that only one pedestrian can pass—wind between tall limestone walls, revealing secret gardens, sculpted facades, and a few ruins perfectly integrated into daily life.
You will come across the House of the Seneschals (15th–17th century), the Saint-Pierre-ès-Liens church situated on the banks of the Dronne, a 12th-century Notre-Dame chapel, and even a medieval square garden planted with medicinal herbs and ancient vegetables. In the surrounding area, there are also a few geological and prehistoric treasures to discover, including the Peyrelevade dolmen, listed as a Historical Monument.
On Sunday mornings, the Halle square hosts a lively local market—featuring cheeses, foie gras, and seasonal fruits—that brings an extra touch of vitality to the village.
Château admission (individual): adults €10.10 · ages 5–12 €6.70 · under 5s free
Opening hours: February to December, times vary by season
Booking recommended: chateau-bourdeilles.fr
A full day in the Périgord Vert
If you are spending a Sunday in the region, start at the Halle square market—with its cheeses, foie gras, and seasonal fruits—before continuing on to visit the châteaux.
