Just a few kilometers from Brantôme, discover a nearly intact medieval village, two castles for the price of one, and a river flowing at the foot of the ramparts. Bourdeilles is truly worth the detour.
A village worth the journey… and the reward
Leaving Brantôme heading southwest, the scenic route follows the Dronne, winding between limestone cliffs and lazy meanders. At the end of this verdant corridor, the massive silhouette of the Château de Bourdeilles suddenly appears, perched on its rocky spur like a forgotten sentinel. You immediately understand why the village was once the first of the four baronies of Périgord — along with Biron, Beynac, and Mareuil — and one of the most disputed seats of power in all of the Dordogne.
The village of Bourdeilles is located just 7 km from Brantôme and about 20 km northwest of Périgueux, in the very heart of the Périgord Vert. From Château le Verdoyer, expect about a half-hour drive to get there — it is the perfect excursion for an afternoon steeped in history.
Two castles, eight centuries of history
What makes Bourdeilles immediately unique is that it is not just one castle, but two structures side-by-side, separated by several centuries of architecture and historical turbulence.
The first, medieval, dates back to the late 13th century. Its 35-meter octagonal keep — the tallest in the entire department — rises above the rooftops with quiet authority. Inside, climb the 235 stone steps to reach a breathtaking panorama: the village, the wooded valley, and the gentle curves of the Dronne. The guard room, paved courtyards, and vaulted cellars complete this immersion into medieval military life.
The second castle, Renaissance in style, was born from a story cut short. It was Jacquette de Montbron who, at the end of the 16th century, commissioned this palace inspired by Italian villas to host Catherine de’ Medici — the protector of Pierre de Bourdeille, author of the famous *Dames Galantes*. Although the Queen never set foot there, the palace remains magnificent. Today, it houses one of the richest collections of furniture in Nouvelle-Aquitaine: tapestries, painted ceilings, gilded salons, and even the legendary Spanish bed of Charles V, known as the “Paradise Bed.” The visit to both castles lasts about 90 minutes.
The Château de Bourdeilles is not just a place to visit; it is a place to experience. Throughout the year, original activities are on offer — virtual reality escape games spanning four pivotal eras, theatrical torchlit night tours, and medieval craft workshops during school holidays. And every year at the end of July, the Bourdeilles Medieval Festival transforms the site for a weekend: armored knight combat, lively encampments, artisan markets, and period cuisine — drawing up to 3,000 visitors for a celebration that grows more impressive each year.
The old bridge, the rapids, and the “Grosses Madames”
One of the most beautiful viewpoints over the entire site is from below, facing the old Gothic bridge with its cutwaters spanning the Dronne. At its feet, the river rushes over small rapids before calming, and on one of the rocky islets stands the 17th-century seigniorial mill, another discreet witness to the village’s medieval prosperity.
In the water, facing the same bridge, you will encounter an artistic surprise: the “Grosses Madames” (Big Ladies), sculptures created by Betty Arab and Laurence Orchard, whose generous forms seem to float between water and sky. One of the most unexpected — and charming — curiosities in the entire Périgord Vert.
Getting lost in the alleys
Beyond the castles, the village itself deserves at least an hour of leisurely exploration. The cantons — these medieval alleys sometimes so narrow that only one pedestrian can pass at a time — wind between high limestone walls, revealing secret gardens, sculpted facades, and ruins seamlessly integrated into everyday life.
You will come across the Maison des Sénéchaux (15th–17th century), the Saint-Pierre-ès-Liens church nestled on the banks of the Dronne, a 12th-century Notre-Dame chapel, and even a medieval square garden planted with medicinal herbs and ancient vegetables. Nearby, the surroundings also hold geological and prehistoric treasures, including the Peyrelevade dolmen, a registered Historic Monument.
On Sunday mornings, the Place de la Halle hosts a lively local market — featuring cheeses, foie gras, and seasonal fruits — that brings an extra spark of life to the village.
Castle entry fees (individual): adults €10.10 · ages 5–12 €6.70 · under 5 free
Opening times: February to December, hours vary by season
Booking recommended: chateau-bourdeilles.fr
A full day in the Périgord Vert
If you are spending a Sunday in the region, start with the market at Place de la Halle — for cheeses, foie gras, and seasonal fruits — before continuing on to visit the castles.
